XacoBlog

Day 23 – Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca

Tohams — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 15:36:00 +0000

Today was one of those epic stages of El Camino, where not only does the beautiful scenery weigh heavily upon your emotions, but so does the significance of a cross: Cruz de Ferro. In itself, it's not a spectacular cross, rather a "plainish" one set upon a tall pillar with a tall pile of rocks strewn at the base. But it's those rocks that are so significant. For years and years, tradition has it that pilgrims bring a stone from their own home. As they walk El Camino, they "put" into the stone a burden upon their mind and heart. By casting away the stone at Cruz de Ferro, the pilgrim symbolically casts away their burden.

I brought a stone from Kansas City. I put great thought into what burdens I would cast away. But then about half way through my journey across Spain, I realized my burdens were maybe a bit insignificant relative to the burdens of others. I met a man from Austria named Markus. I never got his last name. I had heard through the pilgrim grapevine that he had left his home in Austria on foot, walked to Rome, then left Rome and headed towards Santiago de Compostela. I had picked up his pack at some point and knew it was heavy. It was about half way through my pilgrimage that he told me about how heavy his heart was and the reason for his journey.

Back home in Austria, there was a car accident that took the lives of his entire family: his father, his mother, his wife, his son, and his daughter. In his grief, he left his home and his job searching for peace in his heart. By the time I met him, he had long exhausted his money. Putting a hand on his shoulder, I realized how little money he had by realizing how little he's been eating: he was incredibly skinny and it couldn't be healthy. From that point on, every time I saw him, I gave him all the food in my pack (except nuts, his teeth were apparently bad) and took him to eat if we were near a town.

Standing now at Cruz de Ferro myself, I looked at the pile of stones, many with writing on them, many weighing down pictures, and I wondered what other burdens lay cast beneath my feet. I placed my stone, spent a moment pondering my own burdens, said a prayer for all the pilgrims before me, the pilgrims after me, and for Markus.

Peace be with you, Markus.

5 Christmas Blogs

Johnnie Walker — Sun, 20 Dec 2009 07:42:00 +0000

Towards the end of 2008 I sent a couple of Camino Stories to Rebekah Scott for her entertainment. In that very indirect way she has she said, "start a blog and get writing". In the beginning I was interested in whether people read what I write, now the pleasure of it has taken over. However I have very much valued the encouragement and appreciation of others on this little enterprise. Thank you for your messages both public and private.

Sometimes when I talk to people about the pilgrimage routes to Santiago they often jealously think that on pilgrimage we escape the cares of the world. In many ways we do, but we also take them with us. We think about them. Some pray. Others find hope in the beauty. This pilgrim does it to cope with rather than hide from the ugliness we have created in this world.

So this week as we approach this Christmas I'll post a few blogs of pictures and music on that theme.

Five Christmas Crackers

Johnnie Walker — Sat, 12 Dec 2009 13:52:00 +0000

In the last wee while I’ve been talking here and in the Pilgrims’ Forum about volunteering in the Pilgrims’ Office. A lot of us have felt the need to try and “put something back” and this is one way of doing that. A number of people have e mailed me asking about my experience working there. Some people are considering extending their stay in Santiago by a few days and want to try and help out, whilst one or two others are considering spending a month or so in Santiago. Whatever the time that can be given I am sure they will be grateful. For those working for only a few days it may well be that there will be a mountain of the carboard tubes which are sold to hold credenciales to be sorted out, or filing to be done or the left-rucksack store organised. One thing is for sure – with the number of pilgrims expected next year there will be lots to do.

Already the staff numbers have doubled to 23 with more people to be recruited. They will be supplemented by volunteers.

When I was there I grew increasingly fond of the young people who work in the office. They don’t get paid much. They have few breaks and in the summer months they deal with what seems like an unending stream of pilgrims from morning to evening. They try to be eternally friendly and welcoming but you can imagine how difficult that is when there is a 3 hour long queue outside the door with 200 already lined up by the time the office opens. But they enjoy a laugh and there is great camaraderie amongst them. They certainly took this slightly eccentric Scotsman to their hearts.

Because they see the sellos all day every day they know the stages of the routes thoroughly. But few of them are pilgrims themselves. Well at least not yet…there are plans afoot for them to walk the Camino Inglés. They know a good Guide they can use. But recently some of them made another pilgrimage…to London.

On Wednesday Pilar, Danny, Antonio, Cesar, Louis got up at 2am in Santiago to make the journey to Porto for the cheapest of flights to London. I had arranged to meet them on the pavement in front of Big Ben at 4.30 pm. And I had a surprise in store.

Making the arrangements to meet them was interesting in itself. I wrote e mails which went unanswered. I then had to write to the Boss asking if she would speak to them to find out when they were arriving. I got an hilarious reply asking me why I was being so impatient…didn’t I understand they are Spanish? But they got the message and communication was established and the meeting time set. I also had to convey to them the very British concept of “smart but casual” dress. I tried my best in Spanish to explain what I meant. I should have known though that the signs in bars and nightclubs all over the world are probably the same and I was rewarded by an e mail which ended: “estaremos en el Big Ben no jeans & trainners.”

Off I went with translator in tow in the person of Señora Maria the duena of La Terazza who comes from Santiago and is of course fluent in Gallego. We waited in front of Big Ben…and we waited. “How Spanish is this?” lamented Maria. Thank goodness she was the one to say it. But Big Ben has four sides and it turned out our guests were waiting somewhere else.
After we greeted each other, we walked along the pavement in front of the Palace of Westminster. “This is the House of Commons” I explained as we passed St Stephen’s entrance, “And this is the House of Lords.” They stood looking at the magnificent façade. “I wonder if we can get inside?” I asked. They looked at me and then at the policemen, security guards and doormen in top hats. I went ahead and they followed at a little distance. I had a brief word with a Top Hat and beckoned them forward as he opened the door.

His colleague called our hostess and after we went through airport style security we were warmly welcomed by the Baroness Andrews, educationist, and walker. If they were impressed to meet her in these surroundings, she was utterly taken by them and fascinated by what they do. She treated them as if they were members of the Spanish nobility. She showed them round, stopped to demonstrate the ancient voting system and arranged for them to have the best seats in the Chamber where they listened to a debate. She then showed us through the House of Commons Lobby to Westminster Hall with its huge Christmas Tree.

They were completely awazed by the place: the Chamber, the long Gallery, the Queen’s Robing Room, the route the Queen takes for the State Opening of Parliament. But one of the things that struck me most was how proud Kay Andrews was to meet them and to show them around.

All too soon the visit came to an end and it was time for food. In La Terazza of course. Being a Galician restaurant they could not have been more welcoming. The food flowed and platters of wine arrived. From underneath the table I produced a Christmas Cracker for each of them. Each contained a miniature Red Telephone box as a memento of their visit. They looked at the Christmas Crackers and then looked at me and then looked back again. “Errrr…what are these?” one of them asked. They had never seen Christmas Crackers before. And so we set to pulling them, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang. Out fell the party hats and telephone boxes. They could have been in Santa’s Grotto.
You should have seen their faces. I’m still smiling at the memory.

Putting something back

Johnnie Walker — Sun, 06 Dec 2009 08:37:00 +0000

Is there one of us who has walked to Santiago who hasn’t dreamed of running an albergue? Or working forever as a hospitalero receiving pilgrims in various locations along the many routes to Santiago? The urge to “put something back” seems almost universal. It is as if the experience of pilgrimage gives so much to us that we want in some small way to return the favour. For me I think the root of it was that feeling that on the routes we walk in the footsteps of millions who have gone before. Take the arch at Caparra which has stood since Roman times.

Think of the countless pilgrims who have marched onwards under that great stone edifice or made the journey over the Route Napoleon (below) from France into Spain to walk in procession along the Camino Francés or who were cared for or died of illness and injury in pilgrim hospitals some of which are still remembered in the names of places like Hospital de Bruma on the Camino Inglés.

As we go along drinking in the scenery, the company of others or walking in splendid solitude, the benefits of pilgrimage become manifest. This is a simpler way of life with all we need carried on our backs. The walking is balm to the soul and every step seems to erase the cares of regular life at home. There are few decisions to be made. We follow the arrows which have been painted by other pilgrims, we sleep in albergues for small charge or donation, staffed by other volunteer pilgrims, we use guide books written by pilgrims and occasionally we come across people like Rebekah and Paddy or Carmen and many others who have dedicated their lives to developing a ministry of hospitality for pilgrims.

Because of all that is given by the routes and the people along them many pilgrims do give something back. They work as hospitaleros or become active in local Confraternities or Amigos groups. In Spain they walk the route re-painting arrows or plan re-routing when road or house building disrupts the Way. Some people fundraise to help support the albergues run by voluntary Confraternities of many nations such as the two provided by the Confraternity of St James in Rabanal and Miraz. For the albergue in Miraz the members of the Confraternity have raised £100,000 so far and in preparation for the vastly increased numbers in the Holy Year next year they wish to extend it to provide extra facilities. The Spanish authorities have come up with a grant but the members have to raise an additional £25,000 very quickly. Everyone can do something…walked a sponsored walk, have people round to dinner and charge them, just send some cash!

No matter what route is travelled everyone arrives at Santiago and to the Cathedral and the Pilgrims’ Office. I’ve written before about what goes on behind the green door at No 1 Rua de Vilar. This year about 125,000 or so pilgrims will arrive at this Office to have their pilgrims passports stamped for the last time and if they have walked at least 100 kms or cycled at least 200 kms they will be issued with a Compostela with their name written in Latin or a Certificate of Welcome.

In the Holy Year next year a conservative estimate is that at least 250,000 pilgrims will arrive in the Pilgrims’ Office – and they are asking for volunteers to help them. What is it like to do this? Well, I’ve worked there as a volunteer for a few weeks on and off and it is all remarkably simple.

The Office is open from 9 am to 9 pm – maybe more next year. During these 12 hours at peak more than 1500 pilgrims per day are received. It is relentless. In season pilgrims start queuing from 7 am and the wait can be 3 hours when the line is at its longest. (below)

So what do volunteers do? When a new volunteer starts there is some orientation – the layout of the office, introduction to the other staff and volunteers. Meet Eduardo and Mari the two coordinators – they work two shifts. Generally Eduardo works in the morning and Mari in the afternoon and evening.

The three main functions of the office are to: Issue compostelas, run the left luggage facility where pilgrims can leave rucksacks for 1 euro per day, provide general advice such as maps of Santiago and details of albergues etc.

Volunteers are allocated a mentor, a more experienced member of staff. There is a short introduction to the IT system and everyone has a terminal which is part of the office net work. At 9 am the doors open and the pilgrims arrive.

“Siguente” is a familiar word…”next please” and the pilgrims come forward to whoever is free along the line of the counter. Over half of the pilgrims speak Spanish and everyone knows how to say hello so the routine is very simple. Either in Spanish or in sign language the pilgrim is asked for their credencial or pilgrim record – most simply hand it over automatically. Some also offer their identity cards or national passports too. Whilst not necessary I find these really helpful in reading what can be complex names to British eyes.
The pilgrim is asked to fill in a form…name, age, gender, nationality, for the Spanish which Autonomia or local authority area in which they live, their point of departure and whether they have travelled for spiritual reasons, spiritual or others reasons or not spiritual reasons. What they write has to be recorded on the computer but after a little practice it is possible to fill in the computer file as they write. This is not as difficult as it sounds. It is helpful to know how to ask where they are from: De donde eres? With a supplementary Que autonomia? So too is it important to identify the route. Often the Credencial states the starting point. Quickly you will begin to recognise the sellos and also the order in which they should be for the last 100 kms of all of the routes. It is a great help that the majority of pilgrims have walked the 5 days from Sarria.

After the pilgrim fills in the form the details are finalised on the computer and you look up their name in Latin – there is a computer programme to help with this and lists on each desk with the most common names. A little conversation helps as you do all of this. I usually ask “where did you start” “how many days did you walk?” “ how was your Camino?” Pilgrims aren’t used to doing things in a hurry. They want to linger and to talk. Let them talk – it is their moment. Our own pilgrimages are irrelevant! Spanish names can be complicated and often I have to ask “how do you spell it please” or ask them to write their name on a piece of paper in block capitals. Having filled in the Compostela or Certificate, offer congratulations, provide them with a map of the city or whatever else they wish.

Finally on a piece of paper you will record: Roncesvalles – 1 from Canada, 1 from Japan, 2 from Burgos etc. These lists are compiled to form the master list read out at the beginning of each Pilgrims’ Mass. Then…”Siguente”. And you do the same thing again. And again.
Often pilgrims ask complex questions or have problems. The permanent staff of the pilgrims such as Pilar and Rosa (above) office speak Spanish and Gallego and often at least one or two other languages or enough of them to communicate. They will always be ready and willing to help you.

A very few pilgrims are difficult. Some are tired and impatient after waiting for a long time. Others tick the box for “non spiritual reasons” and still want a Compostela. Some have stopped before Santiago: “I walked 300 kms to Leon, why can’t get a Compostela?” It needs to be patiently explained that the pilgrimage is to Santiago – not to Leon!

The there are the “trampas”, the cheats. It surprised me to find there are some. Credenciales with impossibly long distances allegedly walked between places or sellos from different routes amalgamated into one. Bus tourists often chance their luck to see if they can get a Compostela. The staff of the Pilgrims’ Office take their guardianship of the Compostela very seriously. I must admit to being a little more philosophical and try to find a reason to issue the Compostela than reason not to!

Then there is work in the background – preparing the Tubos – the tubes which people buy to hold their Compostela as an alternative to having them laminated in the shop downstairs. Often people ask about accommodation or for information on the route to Finisterre. They are referred to the two Tourist Office further down the street.

There is great camaraderie in the office. This can be monotonous work. But the staff support each other and have great fun. You will be joining a good team.

Working in the office is amongst the most rewarding things I have every done. There are very poignant moments as the last stamp is applied – “ Mira, el ultimo sello” “Look the last stamp” I frequently say often to be met with a tear or far-away look.

There is a downside. You have to find and pay for your own accommodation in Santiago. It is still possible to get a single room with a shared bathroom for around 15 euros per night and there are now one or two private albergues which charge 12 euros for dorm accommodation. Add to that food and regular living expenses and long term volunteering could be quite expensive. But the Pilgrims’ Office welcomes people working for a few days. As yet they have not set a minimum number but I would have thought pilgrims prepared to spend at least 4 or 5 days in Santiago would be most welcome and would make a good contribution.

I’m going to try to be there quite a lot next year. See you there?

Day 22 – Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

Tohams — Wed, 02 Dec 2009 00:57:00 +0000

Rabanal del Camino. What a cool little town. I had such high hopes of staying at the Albergue Gaucelmo, but they were dashed by a bunch of bed bugs infesting the place. It was closed. Presumably by closing, they were able to fumigate the place thoroughly for future pilgrims. The albergue I did stay at was very cool all the same.

The neatest experience in Rabanal del Camino was participating in the Liturgy of Hours and Night Prayers at the local church. I've heard recordings of monks doing Gregorian chants in Latin before. I've even heard it from the depths of the church in Viana, Spain on El Camino. But to actually participate in it is a very spiritual experience. Led by the Benedictine monks of San Salvador del Monte Irago, I had to remember my decades old Latin in this centuries old church to chant along. Unique experiences like this along El Camino are what make the whole journey so unique and so memorable.

Day 22 – Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

Tohams — Wed, 02 Dec 2009 00:57:00 +0000

A star from the East

Johnnie Walker — Sun, 29 Nov 2009 09:36:00 +0000

Yesterday a star appeared from the East. The star in the picture to be exact. It arrived in the post from the Island of Gotland which is in the Baltic Sea to the East of Sweden. It is a charming gift from Christine, a pilgrim, reader of this blog and regular correspondent. It will have a prominent place and shine on the journey to Christmas which begins today.

Over the next four weeks there will be a lot of preparation and a lot of fun. It is a time of the year I love and hate, sometimes in equal measure. But set against the crass materialism of this time of the year is also the sense of community and pilgrimage which can be engendered. My own programme is determined well in advance. Tomorrow evening around 50 people from around Clapham will assemble to form a community choir. Many will never have sung before. The inability to read music is the norm and the only requirement for membership is to join in enthusiastically. But by 9pm tomorrow evening this group of strangers who only came together at 7.30 will know each other a bit better and they will also be singing in three part harmony. The look of surprise on their faces when the three parts are brought together for the first time is always a joy. I’ve already prepared CDs of the parts so they can practice at home, in the bath, in the shower or in the car. Over the next four weeks they will laugh together and sing better and better. Many have no church connection but together they will lead a full candle lit carol service at 11.30 pm followed by sung Midnight Mass. Their achievement is quite magical. Perhaps more of that later in the season.

The route to Christmas is well waymarked. Special Advent services at 12.30 each Saturday attract 120 people who take a break from Christmas shopping on Clapham High Street. Then the Sundays of Advent with the music becoming gradually more festive over the four weeks. On Christmas Eve afternoon the turkey will be cooked and at 6 pm 600 people (including what seems like 300 children) will sing the first Christmas Carols at the first Mass of Christmas. A different 600 people will pack the church at 11.30 pm. Last year we finished at 1am on the dot. The community choir led an all-singing congregation in a rousing rendition of O Come All Ye Faithful, every stop was out on the mighty Hunter organ and all 1600 pipes heralded Christmas. The great procession left the altar and proceeded out of the church. Then a strange thing happened. Almost mischievously I segued into a setting of I’m Dreaming of a White Christmas. It was meant as a light-hearted voluntary as people left. Only they didn’t leave. What started as a few voices joining in led to every single person staying in their places and singing their hearts our once again. The confused priests who had been waiting outside to wish everyone a Merry Christmas as they left came back in to to see what the delay was!

Then on Christmas morning two more full houses at 10 and 12 noon followed by Christmas lunch and rucksack packing on Boxing Day. Well anyway – that’s the plan.

The last week or so has also seen another beginning. A new Guide to the Camino del Salvador. It has been written by three friends, Laurie Reynolds, Rebekah Scott and Piers Nicholson. In a few days it will join the other guides available to download for a donativo from the CSJ website: http://www.csj.org.uk/guides-online.htm
The list of on–line guides is getting longer – The Camino Inglés, the route to Finisterre and Muxía, the Camino Portugués – from Lisbon and from Porto, and the Tunnel Route. These Guides have all been written by pilgrims and will be regularly updated as other pilgrims send corrections or changes or new information. The new Guide to the Camino del Salvador is excellent. Reading it makes me want to walk the route. It is a challenging Camino but the selection of Laurie and Rebekah’s photographs guarantees that there are huge rewards for the effort of climbing over the mountains.
Writing a Guidebook for pilgrims on the routes to Santiago has parallels in music. I was very fortunate to hear the late Erik Routley speak many years ago. In his day a prominent musicologist and composer he said that writing a memorable melody with meaningful lyrics was like throwing a ball at the listener. If you stand too near them they can catch it so easily they won’t remember doing it. Similarly if you stand too far away and throw the ball it will be so impossible to catch they won’t even try. What makes music memorable, he argued, was the composer’s talent in getting the distance right.

This definitely applies to Guidewriting. If the Guide describes every waymark and every turning and gives too many specific directions to “walk 200 yards and turn left at the phone box” then for me it can minimise the challenge and the interest. I think this can also apply to routes and I feel very ambivalent about the Camino Francés where nowadays it is so busy all you have to do is follow the throng and there are so many albergues placed at such frequency the only challenge is deciding whether or not to race the others to find the best bed. But like people there are many kinds of routes and the Camino del Salvador sounds like a corker and I think the authors of the Guide have got the balance just right and give enough information on directions and accommodation to walk the route without getting lost.

Walking the Camino del Salvador is now definitely on the list of routes still to be walked.

Now to find the right place for the star... thank you Christine.

A toast – “To the new boots”

Johnnie Walker — Sun, 22 Nov 2009 08:31:00 +0000

Last week I had the most wonderful lunch with Andy (photo) who has recently walked the Camino Levante from Valencia. I plan to walk this route at the beginning of 2011 so this was a meal of discovery for me. The route passes through some of the most historic parts of Spain. The journey starts in Valencia where I will no doubt meet up with Paco one of my camino amigos.

I first met Paco on the Via de la Plata a few years ago. We met in a small village which comprises only a bar and an albergue. I was walking straight through and Paco was sleeping there, but we shared a few brief words.

We met again the next day when Paco and an older German chap who had walked from Gibraltar sped past walking at 6kms an hour at least. We met up again many kilometres later at the wonderful albergue in Santa Marta de Terra, the Casa Anita. This place is owned by Anita and her ever helpful husband Domingo. As well as the albergue they run a bodega and produce their own wine. Limitless amounts are provided free of charge to pilgrims.

I parted company with Paco there and I thought I’d never see him again. Two years and many Caminos later I was walking the route to Finisterre with Esteban. We had taken the less travelled way to Muxía and then walked backed to Finisterre. Muxía is a beautiful fishing village and the route enters and leaves along the coastline. It considers itself to be the “end of the religious pilgrimage” and the Pilgrims’ Office there issues its own Certificate as does the albergue in Finisterre. Muxía is a place of legend where they say that the Virgin Mary arrived on a stone boat to encourage St James in his work preaching to the Spanish. It is said that parts of the stone boat remain on the beach in front of the Church of Saint Mary of the Boat, Santa Maria de la Barca.

On the way from Muxía to Finisterre there is a short cut into the village of Lires which involves negotiating sunken stepping stones. It is necessary to check the depth of the river, and on the day we were walking, we just managed to get across. By the time we did we were ready for lunch. Although small, Lires boasts three bars each of which appeared to be serving food. We picked one at random and settled at table. Across the dining room I saw a man and a woman eating lunch. The man’s face was vaguely familiar. Since the Big Man’s Spanish is better than mine I persuaded him to go and ask these strangers if we had ever met them before. It turned out to be Paco from the Via de la Plata. He had been walking the Camino del Norte and his wife had joined him in Santiago for the jaunt out to Finisterre and Muxía. But, they pointed out, Paco was really the pilgrim, for his wife this was just a short break. We left them after lunch with a warning about the river crossing and advice that it might be best to take the road route.

Never thinking we would meet again, we set off for Finisterre, stayed overnight and got an early bus back to go to the 12 noon Pilgrims’ Mass in the Cathedral. It was packed as usual and we squeezed into a pew near the front. I looked around and there they were…Paco and his wife, sitting in front of us. “Hola otra vez” we said. They were delighted to see us again. “How did you get on with the river crossing?” we asked. “ I was fine” said Paco’s wife with a mischievous smile ,"but the Pilgrim fell in!”

Since then my interest in the Camino Levante has grown and I’ve kept in touch with Paco from time to time by email. It will be good to see him again. And also to walk to Toledo where in a small bar on September the 11th I watched the twin towers being attacked and collapsing. The bar fell absolutely silent at the sight on the television with the only sound being the sad prophesy from the bar owner who said with a sigh “they will go to war over this”.

I'm very much looking forward to visiting the Cathedral in Toledo again. I remember that first visit when on entering the Sacristy you discover a display of pictures of which any art gallery would be proud. The great ceiling fresco by Lucas Jordán and painting after painting by El Greco.

From there the route heads to Ávila birthplace of the Spanish mystic St Teresa of Ávila then through endless meseta to Medina del Campo which still practices the quite mad (imho) Spanish “sport” of bullrunning where they let fighting bulls loose in the streets of the city leading then eventually to the bullring.

The route then goes onto to Zamora a very beautiful and much undiscovered Spanish city where it joins the Via de la Plata. In total 1300 kms. 7 weeks of fabulous walking.

Lunch with Andy was an inspiration. Much talking and much red wine. We were joined by Don Antonio who was fascinated by Andy’s Credencial with its vast array of sellos. I can see La Terazza offering sellos sometime soon.

I woke the next day with a slightly fuzzy head. It must have been something I ate and had of course nothing to do with the complimentary chupitos of home-made Orujo which Don Antonio insisted should finish the meal. But I was also excited. Planning a pilgrimage always does that to me.

Springing into action I phoned Esteban who I knew needed to buy new boots for the Hogmanay Camino. “Right Big Man, we’ll meet on Saturday and walk the 20 kms round trip to Itchy Feet in central London and then back to La Terazza”. And yesterday that’s exactly what we did. 20 kms followed by a plate of scalding hot Caldo Gallego then a plate of Cocido, slowly braised chicken, ham, pigs trotters, onions and chick peas.

Over post-prandial drinks the new boots were duly passed around the boys in the bar. They were thoroughly examined and after some debate about their merits they received universal approval. They just had to be toasted. Well … any excuse.

Itchy Feet

Johnnie Walker — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 09:24:00 +0000

Arghhhh. October is gone and the diary for November is full. My plans to return to the Madrid route to finish the new Guide have disintegrated. That will have to wait until next year. As the rain hurls against the window this morning I was drawn to vivid memories of walking that route earlier in the year. Crossing the mountains again into Segovia to stand gazing at the Roman Viaduct will have to wait. But my feet are itchy to be walking again so I have hatched another plan! Next year is a Holy Year in Santiago. Whenever St James's day (25th July) falls on a Sunday, the cathedral declares a Holy or Jubilee Year. Holy Years fall every 6, 5, 6, and 11 years: the most recent one was in 2004. The next Holy Years will be 2010, 2021, 2027 and 2032. The Puerta Santa (Holy Door), which gives access to the Cathedral from the Plaza de la Quintana is opened on 31st December on the eve of each Holy Year, and walled up again a year later. (For more on the history of the Jubilee year, the plenary indulgence, and the Compostela document, click here.)
Next year over 5 million visitors are expected in Santiago and the Pilgrims' Office estimates that the number of walking or cycling pilgrims will more than double to 250,000. Local authorities and groups of Amigos are furiously preparing extra accommodation along the pilgrim routes to cope with these vast numbers. On New Year's Eve thousands will cram into the Plaza de la Quintana to see the wall being torn down and the Holy Door opened. It is considered great fortune to pass through the door on this night and to pick up a fragment of brick. In the summer Joaquin the organist in the Cathedral invited us into the organ loft to witness the ceremony on CCTV and to have a bird's eye view of the ceremony which follows. I've thought hard about this and decided I'd rather be walking. For me this is a better way to mark the beginning of this special year.

So the flights are booked and me and companero Esteban will fly to Madrid on 28 December after a punishing schedule of Advent and Christmas musical events. We will make our way North to Ponferrada and walk into Santiago by about the 7th of January.

This is the approximate itinerary:

Ponferrada to begin walking on Wednesday 30 December.
Wednesday - Vilafranca del Bierzo or Pereje.
Thursday 31st - O Cebreiro
Friday 1st - Triacastela
Saturday 2nd - Sarria
Sunday 3rd -Portomartin
Monday 4th - Palas de Rei
Tuesday 5th - Arzua
Wednesday 6th -Pedrouzo
Thursday arrive Santiago

Total - 211 kms. A good walk. I'll try to keep everyone posted as we go along.

The weather is unpredictable and on my last winter camino I got a very nasty chest infection. I also experienced freezing conditions in some albergues. So using the new Camino Travel Centre I've booked hostals along the Way for this trip. It was all remarkably straightforward apart from the fact that it is not yet clear where we will stay or eat on the last day of the year, the Noche Vieja, or for us two Scotsmen, Hogmanay. But one thing is sure wherever we end up the bar takings will certainly be boosted that night.

One of the best pieces of advice I was ever given was to treat winter walking in Spain exactly the same as I would in Scotland. The cold can be just as cold and of course in Galicia the rain and wind can be just as fierce. In saying that I've also needed sunscreen and had to roll up my trousers into makeshift shorts in January in Spain. So preparations have already begun selecting the gear. I expect the rucksack to be heavier than the 5kgs I managed to get it down to in the Summer but the target is no more that 7 kgs or so.

The key, of course, is good layering with lightweight but highly effective "technical" clothing plus an outer rain shell.

As I've mentioned before on the message boards for the last three or four years I've relied on advice and supplies from a really good company called Itchy Feet They have two shops, one in London and the other in Bath. They also have an excellent on line shop. This is a company run and staffed by experienced travellers. They try out the gear they sell and they know exactly what they are talking about.

Over the years I've always advised people preparing for their Camino to only go to suppliers during the week to avoid being served by inexperienced weekend temps. That may be true of other companies but with Itchy Feet I've always found the sales assistants interested, knowledgable and quick to seek advice from other members of staff if they don't know the answer to a question.

And it isn't all about sales or profits. I went to buy walking sandals before going to write the Guide to the Portuguese Route as I knew it would be very hot. Alex in the London shop waxed eloquent about sandals he had walked in in very rugged conditions. Alas they aren't made in the size which fits me best. I was going to make do with a slightly bigger sandal but Alex was quick to point out I'd run into problems. I plumped for a pair of cheaper Tevas that did the job just as well.

I have also noticed particularly on the American message boards a number of people recommending Patagonia raingear. The Patagonia range isn't particularly cheap but it is very good. The R2 Jacket is for me the rolls royce fleece and is indispensable. I also purchased a Patagonia Rainshadow jacket as an outer shell. It sat in the cupboard for nearly a year before I brought it out recently to try out in heavy rain. It felt good. But by the end of the walk I felt cold around the shoulders and when I took it off my shoulders were wet to the touch. Without really thinking more about it I found a couple of complaints on walker message boards about these jackets not being waterproof. I wrote to Itchy Feet asking if any other customers had complained of this problem. Within a few days I got a reply. No they hadn't but they would happily send the jacket back to Patagonia for testing and if shown to be faulty then they would replace it or offer a refund. Really good service.

But that got me thinking. Had I been too hasty to assume the jacket was faulty? Heavy rain was predicted all of this weekend in London so I thought I'd try it out again. First I stood under the shower for 15 minutes. I was dry under the jacket. Hmmmm. Then a brisk walk in the rain. After an hour or so I checked again. Yes - I was wet. Then it dawned on me. This was condensation not rainwater. I'm cold blooded so I always wear layers and have to take them off when I heat up. No matter how breathable outer shells are if you generate heat and perspiration - moisture will build up. This time searching the message boards I found reviews which said things like..."and the only time I felt wet with this jacket was from my own sweat".

Therefore on the second walk in heavy rain I properly adjusted the pit zips for ventilation and wore only one layer. Result: Less wet.

Lesson learned. Take my own advice and try things out properly. But thanks to Itchy Feet for great equipment and a speedy response.

Roll on Hogmanay.

Day 21 – San Martin del Camino to Astorga

Tohams — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 02:56:00 +0000

This post will be in the form of an open letter to the Merrell shoe company (which will also be mailed to them with pictures).

Dear Merrell,

You'll have to excuse my bluntness here, but your shoes suck. I bought a pair of Chameleon 3 Ventilator GTX hiking shoes to do El Camino de Santiago, a 500 mile hike across Spain over varied terrain, including sand, grass, gravel, with the majority of it being paved track. The shoes were ordered from Zappos.com on July 7th so that I could have ample time to break in the shoes and make sure they'd work well (my first day of walking El Camino was September 28th). They were definitely comfortable and walked very well. I only put about 75-100 miles on them in preparation for my trip.

Merely three hundred miles into my trip, I couldn't use them anymore: both the soles had worn through and the right shank collapsed, noticeable altering the support of my arch and making a squeaking/creaking sound with each step I took. I'm not an exceedingly heavy man (175 pounds at the start of the trip). The Camino Frances route I took allows for shelter every night and plenty of food and water along the way, meaning that I only carried 25 pounds at most (including snacks and water). I certainly would not have expected both soles to wear through in only 400 miles. I would've gladly sent you the shoes to see the damage firsthand, but there was not a snowball's chance in hell I was carrying them for 200 more miles (I didn't shave for 5 1/2 weeks because I didn't want to carry shaving cream and a razor) or pay to ship them from Spain. I did, however, take pictures to show you the wear of the soles and the tear in the Gore-Tex caused by the collapsed shank. They are enclosed.

Luckily when they were finally unusable, I was very close to a town big enough to have several sporting goods stores. After spending a couple hours trying on different shoes and spending $147.89 on new ones (after converting the Eurodollars to the horrible U.S. Dollar), I had nothing but fear that I would get blisters since the new shoes of course weren't broken in. Of course there was nothing I could do about that except take excess precautions (foot antiperspirant, vaseline, thin socks under thicker socks, airing my feet out every few hours, Compeed on hot spots, etc.). Despite all of the precautions I took, I still got a few blisters.

At dinner after purchasing the new boots, I met a German gentleman who was doing El Camino for the FIFTH time...IN THE SAME PAIR OF BOOTS. His hiking boots have traveled underfoot over 2,400 miles and aside from having nearly treadless soles, were in decent shape. Your hiking shoes, the third version of the Chameleon model, I should add, didn't even last 400 miles. To say I was disappointed would be an understatement. Given the circumstances, I'd like Merrell to pay $147.89 for the replacement boots I was forced to buy and I'll eat the cost of the necessary blister prevention supplies and the pain and suffering I endured when I got blisters anyway.

I look forward to your reply.

Dissapointedly,

Thomas Lin